Category Archives: Adventures Abroad

Steel horses and disappointments

 

The Kelpies were recommended to me by a colleague as a ‘thing to see in Scotland’. And, I’m so glad we did, this was definitely a highlight of the trip for me. Created by Andy Scott, a pretty famous contemporary sculpture artist, the Kelpies are gigantic horse head sculptures emerging from turning pools along the Forth & Clyde canal. Here’s the fun bits I stole from the Kelpies visitor page (here):

Each of The Kelpies stands up to 30 metres tall and each one weighs over 300 tonnes.

From the artist:

“I wrote of working horses. Of their role in the progress of modern society, as the powerhouses of the early industrial revolution, the tractors of early agriculture and of course, the first source of locomotion for barges on the Forth & Clyde canal, which The Kelpies now inhabit.

“I see The Kelpies as a personification of local and national equine history, of the lost industries of Scotland. I also envisage them as a symbol of modern Scotland – proud and majestic, of the people and the land. They are the culmination of cutting edge technology and hand crafted artisanship, created by our country’s leading experts through international partnerships.

You walk up to the Kelpies from a parking lot a fair bit away, you know they’re going to be big, but they keep growing as you get closer until they tower over you in both beautiful and intimidating ways. The sky shows through the steel plates and depending on where you are to the sun you see it blazing through as well (assuming you’re there on a sunny day, which let’s be honest, Scotland isn’t known for).

Now, who isn’t a fan of civic art? I’m all for it, but these guys are just better, they’re about the heritage of their place and they’re beautiful ta’ boot. You can’t top that…

Unless you’re Arria.

Arria is my biggest disappointment of our Scotland trip (well, aside from trying proper haggis, which I really wanted to).

So Arria is another sculpture by the same artist and I hadn’t heard of her before our trip, then, as we’re driving into Scotland, the sun is setting and all of a sudden I look over and there is this gorgeous, graceful sculpture of a woman hands thrown out to her side and she is actually radiating light from the sun setting behind her. It was one of those images that just sticks with you, it, for lack of a cornier word, moves you.

But, we were speeding along a highway and she disappeared behind us way too quickly.

I really wanted to go back and see her up close. I really hope I get to someday.

Here’s a little more about Arria (stolen from here):  Arria “takes the form of a female figure, with two large swooping arcs from the upraised palms of her hands to the hem of her dress. The idea of the arcs comes from the Gaelic name for Cumbernauld, “comar nan allt”, which translates as “the meeting of the waters”.”

The town she is situated above once won an award for being the most dismal place to stay in Scotland, and a part of the idea in commissioning her was to give people some pride in their hometown (the above mentioned Cumbernauld).  Given her position on a hill above a major highway, something like 70,000 people will see her every single day. Not a bad perk for the cost of gas.

More to come.

– a

Stratford upon Avon or where Shakespeare may or may not have written some stuff, assuming he wasn’t actually a myth or monkey. Or something.

I guess I should be more excited about Shakespeare’s home, but I’m not. Maybe because the whole place really does feel very touristy. We visited Anne Hathaway’s Cottage, which is where Shakespeare’s future wife grew up. Shakespeare grew up in a house somewhere a short walk away, he would have traipsed around the whole area laying woo on Ms. Hathaway. Or something like that.

This place was once a Tudor cottage, now it’s a bigger Tudor cottage, since I think the Hathaways’ came into some money after Shakespeare got famous (though maybe not for a related reason) and expanded the house quite a bit. To begin, the gardens were lovely; with an orchard, a small lavender maze, and these interesting sort of giant teepee shaped huts constructed out of vines (Is there a real name for this?). Inside one of them was a speaker system with celebrities reading you Shakespeare sonnets. That was pretty great.

Inside the cottage was kind of trippy. In that the floors and stairs were so uneven you were likely to trip. JK. JDespite being very well preserved, you could definitely tell this was a really old house and that was very cool. The rooms were tight and cramped and the windows were tiny with wavy glass, and yeah, the wood floors were old and way uneven. On the second floor you could see in between the cracks in the floorboards WAY more often than I was comfortable with.

I think my favorite part of the tour might have been finally learning about thatched roofs, which we see all over the place here, but I know nothing about. Here’s the parts I remember, most of them are probably around 5 or more feet thick and when they are replaced they usually only replace the top 2ish feet. Even at that it costs an actually fortune. Like £25,000. Seriously. But, you only have to do it about every 20 years depending on where in England you live. Other bits of note, the Tudor style houses were generally painted white all over, including the beams, unlike we usually think of them here with the white plaster and dark beams. Painting the beams dark is a decorative tradition that only dates back to the Victorian (?) era. Although, I read somewhere else that in parts of England they did paint the beams with tar to protect from the weather, so the black and white contrast may have been inspired by an actual historical precedent.  Although, I read somewhere else that in parts of England they did paint the beams with tar to protect from the weather, so the black and white contrast may have been inspired by an actual historical precedent. The walls in between the wooden frame would have been filled with clay, mud or plaster made with lime mixed with straw (this is called daub) and the tour guide claimed that the expression ‘here’s mud in your eye’ may have originated from the builders having to try not to fling dirt in each other’s faces as they put up the wall from opposing sides of it. Of course, I have no idea if it’s true and google claims a whole bunch of different things on the subject. Still, kind of a fun thought.

More to come.

– a

Mini-England! It’s a miniature of a miniature! Of a miniature!

Bourton-on-the-Water is in the Cotswolds, an historical and rural part of England that is just a bit North of us, I think. You know you’ve left Oxfordshire (our neck of the woods) when you start to see the golden-y stone buildings outnumbering the brick. It’s actually a really nice change of pace, because as an American, and recently a person trapped in LA, I really miss buildings that were not all the same color (ie. BRICK red).

Also in the Cotswolds: sheep. Sheep in fields. Fields surrounded by waist high stone pile fences. Fields on rolling hills. It’s so scenic, like right out of a BBC miniseries series (probably a few of them actually…) scenic. I’ve now gone through a few villages in the Cotswolds and, yeah, they are pretty much all ridiculously adorable and surrounded by equally charming landscape. Panoramas of idyllic countryside everywhere you look, living there I’m sure it would lose its charm and start reminding me of Tillamook way too quickly, but just visiting is pretty much the definition of delightful.

Bourton-on-the-Water is home to a tiny model village of Bourton-on-the-Water, which is in turn home of a tinier model village of the model village of Bourton-on-the-Water, ad nauseum, ad infinitum, etc. (Well, not really, but there are four layers to this, so yeah, pretty impressive.

We were the first people to arrive at the model village and after walking through a very tall and toothy turnstile (seriously, you’d think they were guarding the crown jewels or something), we came out of hall way to overlook a pretty sizeable village – in miniature! The village complex is pretty big, like about the size of almost a gymnasium and it features the stream which meanders through Bourton-on-the-Water. The individual buildings stand anywhere between waist and almost shoulder level. They are laid out just like the town (kind of the point, I know) and where possible they seem to feature the actual shops that are in the buildings. For instance, the tiny post office features the post office logo and poster about exchange rate prices and postage rates. The churches feature imitation stained glass windows and when you get down close enough to them you can hear the choral/organ music playing inside. Wandering around the little roads and peering into these tiny buildings is definitely a Gulliver’s Travels kind of giant stomping awesome feeling, and the fact that some of the little houses have furniture and curtains and people inside also makes it a tiny bit voyeuristic. I totally loved the whole package. But, most especially pretending the crush things, because who wouldn’t?

The other fantastic part about the model village was a set of mechanical miniature scenes. One of the circus and one of a mint. I loved them both, I love that they were designed and crafted and built and the technology to do so has nothing to do with digital. It’s kind of strange how rare that is in our daily lives and it’s nice every once and awhile to see it. I love my iPad, but this is a tiny working thing that a person built and all of its tiny moving parts make it a whole 3d multi sense perception-al thing. I’m not sure I’m saying that right, but whatever, I know what I mean.

More to come.

– a

Adventuring in our new neck of the woods

Here are a few snapshots of the fantastic adventures that car having has opened up for us: the Blowing Stone, the Uffington White Horse and Wayland’s Smithy.

From Wikipedia, The Blowing Stone is a giant piece of perforated sandstone, and the legend is as follows:

The stone is capable of producing a booming sound, when anyone with the required skill blows into one of the perforations in a particular way. This was, according to legend, the means whereby King Alfred summoned his Saxon troops, in readiness for the nearby Battle of Ashdown, against the Vikings. This legend reputedly gives rise to the village’s name, ‘King’s stone’, the Lisle suffix being a later addition.

Also, according to legend, a person who is capable of making the blowing stone sound a note that is audible atop Uffington White Horse Hill (where Victorian antiquarians thought King Alfred’s troops had camped) will be a future King of England.

In reality, it is a giant rock in a little fenced outcove directly behind someone’s front garden. It is hilariously anti-climactic to go see, and exactly the kind of small-town tourist trap thing you could possibly want to find in rural England. Matt was brave enough to try blowing into a few of the perforations, but I saw spiders and pretty much decided I didn’t need to defeat the Vikings that badly.

I’ve mentioned the Uffington White Horse on here before (it’s the prehistoric hill figure, carved out of the hilltop to reveal the white chalk that runs under the soil here), but I can now finally say I’ve seen it much closer and, much more spectacularly, the view from around it. The horse is carved very high up on a hill, surrounded by pasture land that overlooks the whole shire, or area we live, or whatever you want to call it. We took the dogs up to see it and walked through the surrounding sheep fields to admire the lovely views. The sheep were super not okay with the dogs, staring at us fervently and even slowly stalking us until we’d look back at them/or face them head on, while the dogs were absolutely thrilled to see the sheep, so that was entertaining to say the least.

Wayland’s Smithy is a Neolithic long barrow and chamber tomb. It is just off the Ridgeway (the oldest road in the world (, I think?) and is a really neat little surprise in the middle of nowhere. It’s not a lot to see, just some stones and some tiny rooms where the bodies used to be, but it does have a feeling history about it, it doesn’t look like anything else I’ve ever seen.

(Also from Wikipedia,) here’s the legend:

Wayland’s Smithy is one of many prehistoric sites associated with Wayland or Wolund, a Germanic smith-god. According to legend, a traveller whose horse has lost a shoe can leave the animal and a silver coin on the capstone at Wayland’s Smithy. When he returns next morning he will find that his horse has been re-shod and the money gone. It is conjectured that the invisible smith may have been linked to this site for many centuries before the Saxons recognized him as Wayland. 

Alright, more to come when I’ve got more time to type, but a break in the rain is calling us to venture out to the market now before we have to walk home in the rain…
Yeah, that’s right. We’re still being good and trying not to drive to run our in town errands unless we must, what’s the point of being within walking distance, if you don’t walk? Go us!

 

 

 

 

When We Wandered in Wales

I worried that while people would want to come visit us over here – they would somehow be unable to, or it just wouldn’t come together, but I’m happy to report that is not how it’s been going and I’m so grateful for it. As much as I really enjoy the Brits, it’s nice importing over some people we really know, even if it’s never for long enough…

And, now to Wales!

Tara arrived on 4 July. Best Independence Day present ever! And, the following weekend we trekked on over to Swansea, Wales. Swansea felt pretty big to me after a few months in Wantage, and also, weirdly modern and metropolitan (note to self, leave Wantage more often, your perspective is skewing…). With all the transit, it was about 3.5-4 hours to land at our lovely dragon themed hotel. The Welsh have a serious thing for dragons, which is awesome, I’m completely down for more countries adopting mythological creatures for their flags, mascots, etc. The British Unicorns, here we come!

Upon our arrival on Friday, we wandered around downtown Swansea, including stops in a town square area complete with fountains, castle ruins, a respectable number of references to Dylan Thomas and a bunch of drunks Welsh boys yelling things and cheering on one of their ranks who was dressed to impress in neon wig and a tiny French maids costume and who then commenced to belly flop into one of the aforementioned fountains. Oh drunk Welshmen, you’re going to be our weekends reoccurring theme, aren’t you?

Next, we walked on to the Dylan Thomas Centre, which was sadly closed (that’s what you get in Europe if you try to go places after 5pm. I’m not kidding) and so, we continued on to the waterfront with its boats, nifty bridges, excellent sidewalk art and a weird boat step system that I’ve forgotten the name of (it gets boats out of the harbour, which is damned up higher than the water body around it?).

Next came beer and pub food and more drunk Welshmen (and a Scot) who sloppily hit on Tara and sang both of us old army songs from their time in the service. Yup, that’s right, we were serenaded by a Welsh veteran celebrating his 75th birthday and he was definitely well soused.

After dinner it was too late to go do anything touristy, but too early to just keep drinking, so we settled on seeing the only movie about to start that was not animated. Magic Mike XXL. Oh yeah, this was definitely a girls weekend. The movie was delightful and afterward we ventured into a couple of bars, had some lovely cocktails and listened to some remarkably loud cover bands. We considered walking into some of the plethora of nightclubs, but realized while it might still be midnight in 1995 in Wales, but it was 10pm in 2015 for us and we didn’t need the black lights.

Saturday was for the Mumbles. We bussed over and started with delicious brunch across the street from Oystermouth Castle. And, then CASTLE!!! RUINS!!! All of the lovely scenery! Oystermouth Castle was first built in the 1100s; it’s a Norman castle, built on a hill overlooking the bay and the Mumbles and it is AWESOME. It is by far the most complete ruins I’ve ever seen, with full rooms, fireplaces, staircases and battlement (?) walkways still intact, or at least, well restored for your meandering pleasure. It was a fantastic place to wander around, although the narrow and well-trod staircases were pretty terrifying. We watched a bit of the Swansea airshow – watching fighter jets circle and swoop around the bay from on top of one of the battlements and it was pretty spiffy, if not a little silly as it was only ever one plane at a time.

After the Castle we headed down to the coast, we were hoping to head out to the lighthouse, but it turns out it’s a closed island, so not so much an option. Instead we saw the beach and the downtown with all the fun tourist accoutrement, 10 feet tall monkey statues in red bikinis, a ginormous arcade, dozens of adorably named restaurants and souvenir shops, etc. The Mumbles reminded me a lot of Lincoln City or the nicer parts of the tourist-y Oregon Coast. Everything is coastal themed and laid out as to take the best advantage of the ocean views. But, with the monkey lady, so there’s that…

Mary, Mary, quite contrary,
How does your garden grow?
With silver bells, and cockle shells,
And pretty maids all in a row.

Saturday night was our fancy night out, just us girls and my sunburn out on the town. We finally tried cockles (which Tara was questing for, as she assures me they’re definitely an iconically Welsh thing) and I tried my first pâté. All together a pretty exciting date night.

Sunday was Cardiff (yes, I will take absolutely EVERYONE there and use them as an excuse to visit the Arab Room over and over again) and a surprise cab ride when we discovered that the buses no longer serve Wantage from the train station nearest to us. Whoops. Sadly, Tara left last Tuesday, but we’ll always have Wales… and drunk Welshmen.

Punting the Cam, or 3.5 Oregonians and a former Brit take Cambridge*

The whole no car and pets at home thing almost threw a wrench in it, but we were happily able to meet up with the wonderful Brant and Mariko (and attached adorable Marlowe) for a day out in Cambridge. It was a long trip, but we happily arrived in down town Cambridge on time and no worse for wear. We had some crepes and walked around the market square, visited the outside of King’s College and couple of lovely old churches, and awaited our punting-buddies-to-be…

What is punting you may ask? Punting is awesome. Granted, I’m completely biased by the amount of fun we had doing it – the whole one time, but anyway. Punting is boating in a punt (you may now roll your eyes), which is a flat-bottomed boat which is square on the ends. The punter stands on the upper part of one of these ends and propels the punt by pushing against the river bed with a pole. Kind of like a gondola, but gondolas use oars. Punts are especially designed for small, shallow rivers.

As Brant and Mariko had the baby and none of us wanted to risk falling in the river, we did a punting tour with a professional, who propelled up along an area of the Cam River known as the Backs. So named as it runs along the back of some of the major Cambridge colleges. The tour guide gave us some facts, some history, and lots of local color commentary, so, in short, the best kind of tour guide patter. He also was incredibly good at yelling at people to pull their arms, legs, elbows, hands, etc. back into the boat so they wouldn’t get broken off when the novice punters crashed into us or each other. I’m not saying he had to yell at Matt twice… But, he did. Matt just really wanted to lose a limb apparently (he wouldn’t have necessarily lost it, but it would have definitely been a painful injury). Highlights from the tour included a great view of St. John’s College and it’s asymmetrical eagle (which is apparently there as an snub to another wealthier college just down river), another Bridge of Sighs (there are just too many of these, apparently everybody has got to have one…), the Mathematical Bridge (not built without nails, not built by Newton, not taken apart by students, or for that matter, not any of the other conspiracy theories), and last but not least,  baby water fowl (ducks, swans, geese, we had the gamut – and they dealt admirably with the obnoxious number of boaters).

After wine in punt came the Round Church, or the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, which is one of only four medieval round churches still in use in England, and was actually kind of delightful for not looking as complicated as EVERY-OTHER-CHURCH-IN-EUROPE… Seriously. It was built in 1130 by knights returning from the Crusades and is based on the Holy Sepulchre  in Jerusalem. Or so says Wikipedia, here. Inside the church is two stories of columns with arches between circling the nave (yup, totally had to look that word up, still don’t know what it means), which is I think the whole of the original church, though other parts have been added (but they aren’t round, so what on earth is the point!?!). Oddly enough we met an Alabaman (?) in the churches gift shop…

I’d like to make it back to Cambridge when we have more time. We didn’t get into tour inside of any of the colleges and there are some parts of the grounds/courtyards I’d like to get a better look at. Plus, as an Oxford employee, I like to think Matt is tempting fate just stepping on the premises. (Note: Oxford and Cambridge are rivals, it’s like U of O and OSU, except their insults would probably be in Latin and somebody would be wearing a monocle).

Anyway, more to come.

– a

*Note: I know Brant isn’t actually a ‘former’ Brit. And, Marlowe is only .5 an Oregonian because she’s little. Also, she and Brant both have dual citizenship, so really together they’d equal one more Oregonian, and only a single Brit, but that’s all too complicated and not nearly pithy enough for a title…

Sweden, much belatedly.

There is nothing quite like getting a text message 12 hours before your flight notifying you that your flight has been cancelled. Just that, nothing else. Cancelled and… nada. Then, you spend 20 minutes trying to get onto the airlines website (it keeps crashing (likely due to the amount of sudden desperate traffic) and finding out that there is a depending airline strike affecting multiple Scandinavian airlines, and also, online rebooking is down. Also, online customer support is down. Also, apparently you can be charged for calling customer service in this country – BECAUSE WTF? So, I spent 20 minutes on hold waiting to talk to the airline, 30 minutes on chat with the car service and another 6 stomping my feet and contemplating why I ever try to leave my house, before delaying my flight by one day and being fairly assured that if I didn’t hear from the airline by 8am the next day, then I would probably be able to fly out the day after… And, luckily, I was.

One other note, the 40 minutes on chat were for nothing. I still got a 3:30 am wake-up call from my driver who was 30 minutes outside of London (and 30 minutes away from picking me up) confirming that I was ready to go for my originally scheduled car service pickup. I still feel pretty bad about that part. I doubt anybody reimbursed him for his time or gas on that day… But, oh well. Moving on.

I arrived in Sweden to find a beautiful woman awaiting me just outside security. It was just like Love Actually. Complete with hugging. Or something like that. Karyn and David were awaiting me at the smallish and therefore lovely Gothenburg (Göteborg) airport, which reminds me a lot of PDX. Smallish, easy loading/parking, and excellent outdoor statuary, and only a short drive from your nearest McDonalds? Yeah, it’s weird when those pop up over here, but they do. Sweden actually reminded me a bit of Oregon a few times throughout the visit. It’s very green and foresty. Not flat, but not exactly rolling hills, lots of fields and grey cloud cover and the houses have something of that blocky, big windowed, certain styles of siding, coastal Oregon style. Although more candy colored; Karyn  says the houses there remind her of Lego houses, because they like the bold and the primary colors, but there’s a fair amount of the bright pastels as well.

We started the trip with about a dozen roundabouts on the way home and amazing gyro pizza. The pizza was wonderful, the roundabouts might be safer and more environmentally friendly, but damn they are nauseating, especially when there is one almost every block!

It was a long trip, so I’m not going to get overly precious about chronology here, but as follows are some highlights.

We took a wander through downtown Gothenburg and saw gorgeous and/or nifty buildings, including an opera house designed to look like a ship, another called the ‘lipstick’ building (red top floors, white middle, red lower) (yes, it was weird) and a gorgeous old factory with an aged copper roof and shutters. The copper roofs are a big thing in Sweden and I am a HUGE FAN. The green color is vibrant without being garish and is usually in such wonderful contrast to the buildings, whether they be light stone/paint, or brick. Gothenburg feels much more modern than the UK, partially because it is, but also because of the scale. It’s just not – cramped – like so much of England has felt. It’s also very clean, there is that tidy, moneyed feeling that some places have.

There is no Karyn and David without pinball, so of course the requisite time was spent in the pinball arcade, but also watching the world championships on a live streaming service. J Despite how silly that may sound, it was actually kind of fun to watch that way – they had a camera on the player, another on the play field and a third on the score board, so you actually got a lot more information about how it was going then I can ever manage to gather while watching it live. Naturally, Karyn won everything… Or something like that, accuracy be damned. Also to be noted, from the food shack next door, I bravely tried the Halv Special (half a special)’ – a hot dog in bun buried under huge amounts of mashed potato and something called shrimp salad, with fried onions, and a drizzle each of ketchup and mustard. I try to always be game for embracing the local food style, bu yeah, I wouldn’t have been sorry to miss this one, although I bet Matt would have loved it. Eew. However, I felt very differently about the Swedish meatballs, fries and lingonberry sauce I had there a few days later. MUCH YUM.

Ullared. How to describe Ullared? Ullared was described to me as a sort of Disneyland of discount shopping, a Walmart mecca (please don’t strike me dead for that one)… It’s a compound of shopping all by itself in the-middle-of-nowhere-Sweden and people actually take vacations to visit this place. However, I didn’t think it was that nuts. We went, largely for my own amusement, but also so Karyn could stock up on some new house to fill/furnish necessities. This place was probably double the size of a Walmart or a Costco. And, it had some of everything. Mostly at wonderful discounts. And, was as crammed with people as a Costco on a holiday weekend Saturday. It was by no means terrible, but it was definitely a bit zoo-y. The store also features its own salad bar restaurant, its own sports bar restaurant. And, is then surrounded by a bunch of other outlet stores around it: crafting, sporting, gardening, adult, book, and a couple others I don’t remember. As much as I’d like to pull something salient out of the experience, I’ll just say, I got some of the best bobby pins I’ve ever used in my life here and it was a fun day out, if not culturally educational in any way. Oh, and I got build-them-yourself Tomte Dolls which I will assemble before Christmas. *Note: I’m gradually accruing us small things that will someday make our Christmas tree an impressively multicultural experience, and this makes me incredibly happy. On our drive there we stopped to see a beautiful country church that was perched on a bit of hill and surrounded on three sides by fields of sheep. It was adorable, painted lots of pretty colors and with lots of tall pointy turret-y roof elements and I like to think that makes up for the lack of culture having discount shopping outing.

Last but not least…

Matt arrived from his conference on Friday evening, and we were scheduled to leave mid-day on Sunday, so Saturday was our one big tourist it up day. And, Karyn and David totally picked us a winner. Marstrand is a beautiful little island in southern Sweden, a short drive from Gothenburg and featuring ridiculous amounts of charm and scenery. We walked along the coast, including through the ‘eye of the needle’ (a very narrow walkway between very tall rocks) and through some little foresty paths… And, then COAST. Not like beach coast, instead like giant, prehistoric, fall off the edge of the world, rock coast. It was just gorgeous. And, it felt like the edge of the world, though this isolated, desolated look was totally interrupted by a huge sailing race going on just a short way from shore and so the view was peppered with lots of brightly colored sails. We continued our walk along the coast, seeing a deserted nudie beach (way too cold for that yet), and the fort on the hill, which dates back to the 1800s or something. We had some fish and chips and ice cream, we saw some really fantastic civic art (my favorite was Tony Craggs’ Point of view).

After Marstrand was an authentic taco dinner made by Karyn’s fantastic friend, Rachel (another LA escaper, though I think she didn’t hate it there, so we’ll have to try not to hold that against her) and there are not words for how fun it was to not only have dinner with friends, but also to have tacos. Seriously, who knew you could miss tacos so much?

 

Some food for thought:

  1. Licorice is a BIG thing in Sweden. They pair it with everything, berries, salt, chocolate, the list goes on. I am a fan of black licorice (much to Matt’s chagrin), but seriously, it’s not a versatile pairing flavour people. Stop trying.
  2. The long summer days in the UK, but even more so in Sweden (it was still light-ish at 11pm when we were there, in late May), are amazing (if not a little weird), but they do make me fear the VERY SHORT winter nights…
  3. The Swedes don’t lack in national self-esteem. And, for good reason, Sweden takes great care of itself, but there’s also only a few million people there, so that’s not exactly as difficult to do well as it would be for other places…

 

It still amazes me that we know live somewhere where international travel is so logistically feasible and (comparably) cheaper.

More to come.

– a

Employment!

Well, I’m happy to report, though some what belatedly to this blog, that I’m now employed in the UK! As of June 1st, I will be starting as a Production Editor with Taylor & Francis publishing in Milton. Milton is a few towns passed Didcot and the RAL campus where Matt works, so we’ll now be traveling in about the same direction and for similar hours to boot! There are a lot of words for how excited and terrified I am about this development, but we’ll save those for later. Let’s start with the job hunt process and how extraordinarily similar and different it has been here.

I didn’t really start looking for work until April, I meant to in March, but I mostly just, didn’t. Then I did the usual update the resume/cv, update, revise, worry over the cover letter and then sent out various versions of each to innumerable jobs posted online. Actually, I probably only responded to about 10 postings, some administrative and many more in publishing. I was impressed with one of the posting at Oxford that said they would be offering interviews within a week or so of when the position posting date closed. I assumed they were unusually motivated, but it turns out, the hiring/search process does seem to move faster here than I’ve previously experienced. I’ve now heard back from every job I remember applying to, all of them responded one way or another within less than a month. And, the two interview processes I went through were both completed within about 2 weeks, so pretty darn quick! (Although, this is not true of Matt’s process at all, so grain of salt here, guys.)

Both positions I was in the running for had first and second interviews, separated by about a week. Both were with at least a couple of people and both included little tests/activities, which was only a problem because they never tell you how you did on the test and that’s just not a nice thing to do to a former honors program kid. The position I applied for at Oxford was with a great department, but (I very biase-ly think that) I was, if not over qualified for it, then at least overly experienced for it. And, so I was thrilled when they called me right before the last bank holiday to notify me that I got the job at T & F. I have zero experience and know almost nothing about the field, but I’m incredibly excited to figure it out. And, I can’t wait for the opportunity to get out of the house a bit more and participate in Britain in a more active way. Although, I know my having a salary will eventually lead to our having a car and I’m still not so on board with my having to learn to drive over here… *whimper*, but at least that commute will be with Matt everyday and we can be adorably grumpy morning commuters together, so how great is that?

And, as such, I’m sure there will be more to come…

– alaina

The Arab Room

One of the places I remember best from my first visit to the UK (in college) is a day trip to Cardiff, Wales and, more specifically, to Cardiff Castle’s the Arab Room. Which is unequivocally the most beautiful space I have ever seen. For our last weekend excursion before Sweden and I start working, we went there last Saturday to see it again, Matt probably only agreed so I’d shut up about it…

Cardiff Castle is very strange to approach because it really is just you walk down the main promenade and tons of shops and very modern and then the road ends and your at crazy tall medieval stone walls and then once inside there is a castle in the middle of town. It’s wonderfully close to a real-life time travel feeling. The castle has been around since pre-Roman occupation times and has seen all sorts of history, but let’s get to the less bloody parts. The house part was built by a rich family a few hundred years ago or so and it’s pretty crazy – they had an en suite bathroom about two hundred years before most people even had an inhouse toilet. That’s how much money they had. For real. They also had a table that was designed with a hole in the middle of it so a live potted grape vine could be brought in and arranged in it so you could puck your breakfast fruit right off the vine. There is also an incredible rooftop garden room with a sunken floor that essentially made up a wading pool surrounded by little fountains and planter boxes and I can’t even imagine how gorgeous it must have been when it was in use and in bloom. But, most importantly, the Arab Room. The Arab Room is just one of many little parlour-y rooms, it’s not even the biggest deal one, it was supposedly built to be a ladies sitting room. Apparently they used it as an occasional guest bedroom. It is a fairly small square room with a fireplace on one wall and smallish windows on the other three. The room is considered one of the architect/designers greatest works, inspired by his obsession with Arabic and Moorish design. The ceiling is the focal point, and I don’t know how to describe it. It is everything you could want from the following description, gold, light, fluid, geometry. I’ve read it described ad jelly molded or honeycombed. But, really there just aren’t words. Something about the way it is carved and gilded makes it seem like it makes it’s own light. Come visit us and I will take you to see it, but in the interim, this is a link to a 360 degree view of the room: http://www.360cities.net/image/arab-room-cardiff-castle-by-jon-rowley

I would stayed in the Arab Room all day, but that would have meant nobody else got to go in (as they only let two or so people stand in the entry corner at a time, the rest of the room is roped off) and Matt told me that might not be considered ‘polite’ or ‘the right thing to do’… So, we left and walked the ridiculous trek up the stairs to the Roman keep aka where your fear of stairs is born. The stairs up the various levels alternate between worn and sloping, to backless and overly tall, to spiral and exceptionally narrow. And, there are a lot of them. But mostly there are just A LOT of people on them and not enough room for two people on any given stair. It was just ridiculous and awkward enough to keep it from being genuinely frightening, but as a bonus, had you fallen, you would have been saved from a long fall by all of the other bodies behind you… So, that’s something? Ish? The views up top were well worth it though, lovely panoramas of much of Cardiff and the sea beside it.

Unfortunately, there was not time for much after the castle if we wanted to make it home in time to let the dogs out before a length of time that could be classified as cruel.

So, home we headed, but fantasies about becoming a squatter in the Arab Room still dances in my head.

That’s the thing about having brought our pups with us here, they may not be as inconvenient for travel planning as, say, children, but they definitely aren’t easy. No days longer than 8 (maybe 10, but only with incredible guilt) hours away from home. No weekends away without arranging for a kennel, and no one night in a kennel, because kennels are never open to give you back your pet on a Sunday. Also, no kennel because they cost a fortune. It’s like doubling our own lodging budget.

I love our demon spawn and I don’t think we would have felt good about this move if we had left them behind, assuming we could have even found homes for them for a few years (as, they aren’t exactly popular with anyone who isn’t us), but, man, they get in the way of adventuring. It is becoming a frequent frustration already, especially as it is exacerbated by the also present mass transit hassle.

In theory, when we buy a car some of this will abate, though obviously not the weekend part, or the travel part during hot weather, but any diminishing of inconvenience sounds pretty good to me right now.

More to come.

– a

Bath, Baaath? Bathe? Whatever…

Matt & I spent a recent Monday bank holiday in Bath, which Brits apparently pronounce Baaah-th, but I feel weird and pretentious when I say anything other than Bath, but I digress. It’s a pretty long train ride to Bath from Didcot, which is the nearest major train station to us and is in itself a 30+ minute bus ride, so, like all of our day trips, we started early on a 3ish hour commute, but, like all of our day trips it was totally worth it. Bath is a Georgian city that became big and important and rich when a leporous shepherd discovered that his leporous pigs were being healed after bathing in the local river, and then he started bathing in the river and his leporousy improved? was cured? I don’t know, but history happened and then there you go, every started coming to ‘take the waters.’ Matt had already day tripped to Bath before my arrival, but as I wanted to go for Austen and he is allergic to spending an entire weekend without a major excursion from our house, off we went. The Georgian city part references a particular style of architecture and Bath has maintained that style rather strictly, which has allowed the entire city to qualify for some sort of English/world heritage site, which is pretty impressive, considering that means all new construction has to at least appear period appropriate. Which is probably why I’ve seen their grocery store in an Austen adaptation… Just kidding. Probably.

Our first stop was for food, which turned out to be every kind of breakfast food possible stacked into a sandwich, I think it was called ‘And then your arteries gave up and you died’. But, it was delicious and cheap and kept us from having to spend real money on meals out. This is our touristing goal, to eat as little as possible for any given meal/snack time, because eating out is really pricy here. So, we do a lot of little half-meals on these trips, just enough to keep us in walking energy. We ate said heart-stopper in Queen Square Park, across the street on one side from one of the homes Jane Austen resided in and across on the other side from the Jane Austen Centre, which was our second stop. The Jane Austen Centre is more historical/educational facility than museum, it doesn’t necessarily have much of hers personally, but plenty of exhibits and articles about her life and times. Plus, the staff is all in costume. I WANT THIS JOB, those dresses are fantastic! Although, I hate a bonnet. Anyway, our tour guide gave us an introduction to her family and her relationship to Bath and then directed us to the rest of the house which all just lovely walk through- look at stuff. We stopped by an exhibit on the history and importance of tea at time: it used to be kept under lock and key and would be used up to three times (family, servants, then the poor) as it was such an expensive and precious commodity. To which I say, WHAAA??? Seriously? We dropped by the dress up area where Matt gamely dressed up in the vest and jacket and cravat, though, obviously neither of us knows how to tie a cravat, so it was used more in a scarf like capacity… He also rocked the top hat and walking stick, my own personal literary hero. In that capacity, he also bought me the most amazing souvenir ever. It’s a small bust of Austen and will sit on every desk I ever accessorize for the rest of forever, I’m so excited about it. Next in the Austen house was writing a note with ink and quill, which was easier than I expected, and every bit as messy. The ink was red and it appeared as though I was actively bleeding from my middle finger for the rest of the day. It freaked Matt out once and myself, at least three times. Last stop in the Centre was to visit the life size wax figure of Jane herself. Designed by a forensic archaeologist or something, it is based on a couple of existing portraits and any surviving accounts of Jane Austen’s appearance. It was honestly a little weird, she has cleavage and freckles and that wax model skin that always kind of creeps me out, but it was also pretty cool. They made her a bit beaky, much like the only image they’ve got of her mom, which is a silhouette with what can only be deemed a witch’s schnoz. It’s a nice detail.

Here’s the thing about taking day trips without a vehicle, we’re limited in how long we can leave the dogs home alone. Too many hours in the crate goes from unfortunate and unavoidable to cruel REALLY quickly. So, after the Austen Centre we did have a ton of time left. Matt, taking his role of gallant hero to heart, deferred to me again and we briefly peaked in the Pump Room, which is in the same complex/building as the Roman Baths and next door to Bath Abbey. It’s also a major featured setting in Austen when the characters spend anytime in Bath. It’s basically a giant room that they now use as a restaurant cafe where the cheap tea service is like £30, so all we did was peak in around the edges. We then strolled through Bath Abbey which is as lushly decorated as I’ve come to expect of these gothic English churches, and decided to spend what time we had left taking the hop-on, hop-off bus tours that are all over the place here. We rolled through the city route, which featured another couple of Austen highlights, as well as most of the famous spots, like the glorified terrace houses of Royal Crescent and the Fashion Museum and Circus. We then took the city view tour, which promised panoramic views of the whole valley and city from the surrounding hill drives. To this, I call bullshit. Most of the country roads here are small and windy and completely surrounded by foliage, they’re lovely in themselves, but they don’t offer much view beyond the trees around them, so we saw almost nothing of the countryside, we just got really cold and saw where the last fatal duel in England was fought. We did see a pint sized version of the large abbey we had already seen, which was pretty neat, but on the whole the tour didn’t offer much and I’m glad we didn’t have to pay extra for it. The whole hop-on, hop-off concept is actually pretty neat, especially since all tickets last two days, so if you’re visiting a place for the weekend, you really can use them to hit the major hotspots.

After the tour was the long commute home which was a little dicey as the train was slammed full and we had to ride in a couple of backwards facing seats for the first leg of it – not surprisingly, I of the ALWAYS carsick, do not do well in backward facing seats, imagine that.  🙁  Great trip on the whole, after the nausea subsided, and now I have Jane Austen in 3-D form to keep me company forever!

Observations: We saw a sign for a buffet on the way to Bath, the tag line was Eat as Much as you like, instead of All you can eat. I really love the differences there.

More to come,

– alaina