When We Wandered in Wales

I worried that while people would want to come visit us over here – they would somehow be unable to, or it just wouldn’t come together, but I’m happy to report that is not how it’s been going and I’m so grateful for it. As much as I really enjoy the Brits, it’s nice importing over some people we really know, even if it’s never for long enough…

And, now to Wales!

Tara arrived on 4 July. Best Independence Day present ever! And, the following weekend we trekked on over to Swansea, Wales. Swansea felt pretty big to me after a few months in Wantage, and also, weirdly modern and metropolitan (note to self, leave Wantage more often, your perspective is skewing…). With all the transit, it was about 3.5-4 hours to land at our lovely dragon themed hotel. The Welsh have a serious thing for dragons, which is awesome, I’m completely down for more countries adopting mythological creatures for their flags, mascots, etc. The British Unicorns, here we come!

Upon our arrival on Friday, we wandered around downtown Swansea, including stops in a town square area complete with fountains, castle ruins, a respectable number of references to Dylan Thomas and a bunch of drunks Welsh boys yelling things and cheering on one of their ranks who was dressed to impress in neon wig and a tiny French maids costume and who then commenced to belly flop into one of the aforementioned fountains. Oh drunk Welshmen, you’re going to be our weekends reoccurring theme, aren’t you?

Next, we walked on to the Dylan Thomas Centre, which was sadly closed (that’s what you get in Europe if you try to go places after 5pm. I’m not kidding) and so, we continued on to the waterfront with its boats, nifty bridges, excellent sidewalk art and a weird boat step system that I’ve forgotten the name of (it gets boats out of the harbour, which is damned up higher than the water body around it?).

Next came beer and pub food and more drunk Welshmen (and a Scot) who sloppily hit on Tara and sang both of us old army songs from their time in the service. Yup, that’s right, we were serenaded by a Welsh veteran celebrating his 75th birthday and he was definitely well soused.

After dinner it was too late to go do anything touristy, but too early to just keep drinking, so we settled on seeing the only movie about to start that was not animated. Magic Mike XXL. Oh yeah, this was definitely a girls weekend. The movie was delightful and afterward we ventured into a couple of bars, had some lovely cocktails and listened to some remarkably loud cover bands. We considered walking into some of the plethora of nightclubs, but realized while it might still be midnight in 1995 in Wales, but it was 10pm in 2015 for us and we didn’t need the black lights.

Saturday was for the Mumbles. We bussed over and started with delicious brunch across the street from Oystermouth Castle. And, then CASTLE!!! RUINS!!! All of the lovely scenery! Oystermouth Castle was first built in the 1100s; it’s a Norman castle, built on a hill overlooking the bay and the Mumbles and it is AWESOME. It is by far the most complete ruins I’ve ever seen, with full rooms, fireplaces, staircases and battlement (?) walkways still intact, or at least, well restored for your meandering pleasure. It was a fantastic place to wander around, although the narrow and well-trod staircases were pretty terrifying. We watched a bit of the Swansea airshow – watching fighter jets circle and swoop around the bay from on top of one of the battlements and it was pretty spiffy, if not a little silly as it was only ever one plane at a time.

After the Castle we headed down to the coast, we were hoping to head out to the lighthouse, but it turns out it’s a closed island, so not so much an option. Instead we saw the beach and the downtown with all the fun tourist accoutrement, 10 feet tall monkey statues in red bikinis, a ginormous arcade, dozens of adorably named restaurants and souvenir shops, etc. The Mumbles reminded me a lot of Lincoln City or the nicer parts of the tourist-y Oregon Coast. Everything is coastal themed and laid out as to take the best advantage of the ocean views. But, with the monkey lady, so there’s that…

Mary, Mary, quite contrary,
How does your garden grow?
With silver bells, and cockle shells,
And pretty maids all in a row.

Saturday night was our fancy night out, just us girls and my sunburn out on the town. We finally tried cockles (which Tara was questing for, as she assures me they’re definitely an iconically Welsh thing) and I tried my first pâté. All together a pretty exciting date night.

Sunday was Cardiff (yes, I will take absolutely EVERYONE there and use them as an excuse to visit the Arab Room over and over again) and a surprise cab ride when we discovered that the buses no longer serve Wantage from the train station nearest to us. Whoops. Sadly, Tara left last Tuesday, but we’ll always have Wales… and drunk Welshmen.

Punting the Cam, or 3.5 Oregonians and a former Brit take Cambridge*

The whole no car and pets at home thing almost threw a wrench in it, but we were happily able to meet up with the wonderful Brant and Mariko (and attached adorable Marlowe) for a day out in Cambridge. It was a long trip, but we happily arrived in down town Cambridge on time and no worse for wear. We had some crepes and walked around the market square, visited the outside of King’s College and couple of lovely old churches, and awaited our punting-buddies-to-be…

What is punting you may ask? Punting is awesome. Granted, I’m completely biased by the amount of fun we had doing it – the whole one time, but anyway. Punting is boating in a punt (you may now roll your eyes), which is a flat-bottomed boat which is square on the ends. The punter stands on the upper part of one of these ends and propels the punt by pushing against the river bed with a pole. Kind of like a gondola, but gondolas use oars. Punts are especially designed for small, shallow rivers.

As Brant and Mariko had the baby and none of us wanted to risk falling in the river, we did a punting tour with a professional, who propelled up along an area of the Cam River known as the Backs. So named as it runs along the back of some of the major Cambridge colleges. The tour guide gave us some facts, some history, and lots of local color commentary, so, in short, the best kind of tour guide patter. He also was incredibly good at yelling at people to pull their arms, legs, elbows, hands, etc. back into the boat so they wouldn’t get broken off when the novice punters crashed into us or each other. I’m not saying he had to yell at Matt twice… But, he did. Matt just really wanted to lose a limb apparently (he wouldn’t have necessarily lost it, but it would have definitely been a painful injury). Highlights from the tour included a great view of St. John’s College and it’s asymmetrical eagle (which is apparently there as an snub to another wealthier college just down river), another Bridge of Sighs (there are just too many of these, apparently everybody has got to have one…), the Mathematical Bridge (not built without nails, not built by Newton, not taken apart by students, or for that matter, not any of the other conspiracy theories), and last but not least,  baby water fowl (ducks, swans, geese, we had the gamut – and they dealt admirably with the obnoxious number of boaters).

After wine in punt came the Round Church, or the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, which is one of only four medieval round churches still in use in England, and was actually kind of delightful for not looking as complicated as EVERY-OTHER-CHURCH-IN-EUROPE… Seriously. It was built in 1130 by knights returning from the Crusades and is based on the Holy Sepulchre  in Jerusalem. Or so says Wikipedia, here. Inside the church is two stories of columns with arches between circling the nave (yup, totally had to look that word up, still don’t know what it means), which is I think the whole of the original church, though other parts have been added (but they aren’t round, so what on earth is the point!?!). Oddly enough we met an Alabaman (?) in the churches gift shop…

I’d like to make it back to Cambridge when we have more time. We didn’t get into tour inside of any of the colleges and there are some parts of the grounds/courtyards I’d like to get a better look at. Plus, as an Oxford employee, I like to think Matt is tempting fate just stepping on the premises. (Note: Oxford and Cambridge are rivals, it’s like U of O and OSU, except their insults would probably be in Latin and somebody would be wearing a monocle).

Anyway, more to come.

– a

*Note: I know Brant isn’t actually a ‘former’ Brit. And, Marlowe is only .5 an Oregonian because she’s little. Also, she and Brant both have dual citizenship, so really together they’d equal one more Oregonian, and only a single Brit, but that’s all too complicated and not nearly pithy enough for a title…

Sweden, much belatedly.

There is nothing quite like getting a text message 12 hours before your flight notifying you that your flight has been cancelled. Just that, nothing else. Cancelled and… nada. Then, you spend 20 minutes trying to get onto the airlines website (it keeps crashing (likely due to the amount of sudden desperate traffic) and finding out that there is a depending airline strike affecting multiple Scandinavian airlines, and also, online rebooking is down. Also, online customer support is down. Also, apparently you can be charged for calling customer service in this country – BECAUSE WTF? So, I spent 20 minutes on hold waiting to talk to the airline, 30 minutes on chat with the car service and another 6 stomping my feet and contemplating why I ever try to leave my house, before delaying my flight by one day and being fairly assured that if I didn’t hear from the airline by 8am the next day, then I would probably be able to fly out the day after… And, luckily, I was.

One other note, the 40 minutes on chat were for nothing. I still got a 3:30 am wake-up call from my driver who was 30 minutes outside of London (and 30 minutes away from picking me up) confirming that I was ready to go for my originally scheduled car service pickup. I still feel pretty bad about that part. I doubt anybody reimbursed him for his time or gas on that day… But, oh well. Moving on.

I arrived in Sweden to find a beautiful woman awaiting me just outside security. It was just like Love Actually. Complete with hugging. Or something like that. Karyn and David were awaiting me at the smallish and therefore lovely Gothenburg (Göteborg) airport, which reminds me a lot of PDX. Smallish, easy loading/parking, and excellent outdoor statuary, and only a short drive from your nearest McDonalds? Yeah, it’s weird when those pop up over here, but they do. Sweden actually reminded me a bit of Oregon a few times throughout the visit. It’s very green and foresty. Not flat, but not exactly rolling hills, lots of fields and grey cloud cover and the houses have something of that blocky, big windowed, certain styles of siding, coastal Oregon style. Although more candy colored; Karyn  says the houses there remind her of Lego houses, because they like the bold and the primary colors, but there’s a fair amount of the bright pastels as well.

We started the trip with about a dozen roundabouts on the way home and amazing gyro pizza. The pizza was wonderful, the roundabouts might be safer and more environmentally friendly, but damn they are nauseating, especially when there is one almost every block!

It was a long trip, so I’m not going to get overly precious about chronology here, but as follows are some highlights.

We took a wander through downtown Gothenburg and saw gorgeous and/or nifty buildings, including an opera house designed to look like a ship, another called the ‘lipstick’ building (red top floors, white middle, red lower) (yes, it was weird) and a gorgeous old factory with an aged copper roof and shutters. The copper roofs are a big thing in Sweden and I am a HUGE FAN. The green color is vibrant without being garish and is usually in such wonderful contrast to the buildings, whether they be light stone/paint, or brick. Gothenburg feels much more modern than the UK, partially because it is, but also because of the scale. It’s just not – cramped – like so much of England has felt. It’s also very clean, there is that tidy, moneyed feeling that some places have.

There is no Karyn and David without pinball, so of course the requisite time was spent in the pinball arcade, but also watching the world championships on a live streaming service. J Despite how silly that may sound, it was actually kind of fun to watch that way – they had a camera on the player, another on the play field and a third on the score board, so you actually got a lot more information about how it was going then I can ever manage to gather while watching it live. Naturally, Karyn won everything… Or something like that, accuracy be damned. Also to be noted, from the food shack next door, I bravely tried the Halv Special (half a special)’ – a hot dog in bun buried under huge amounts of mashed potato and something called shrimp salad, with fried onions, and a drizzle each of ketchup and mustard. I try to always be game for embracing the local food style, bu yeah, I wouldn’t have been sorry to miss this one, although I bet Matt would have loved it. Eew. However, I felt very differently about the Swedish meatballs, fries and lingonberry sauce I had there a few days later. MUCH YUM.

Ullared. How to describe Ullared? Ullared was described to me as a sort of Disneyland of discount shopping, a Walmart mecca (please don’t strike me dead for that one)… It’s a compound of shopping all by itself in the-middle-of-nowhere-Sweden and people actually take vacations to visit this place. However, I didn’t think it was that nuts. We went, largely for my own amusement, but also so Karyn could stock up on some new house to fill/furnish necessities. This place was probably double the size of a Walmart or a Costco. And, it had some of everything. Mostly at wonderful discounts. And, was as crammed with people as a Costco on a holiday weekend Saturday. It was by no means terrible, but it was definitely a bit zoo-y. The store also features its own salad bar restaurant, its own sports bar restaurant. And, is then surrounded by a bunch of other outlet stores around it: crafting, sporting, gardening, adult, book, and a couple others I don’t remember. As much as I’d like to pull something salient out of the experience, I’ll just say, I got some of the best bobby pins I’ve ever used in my life here and it was a fun day out, if not culturally educational in any way. Oh, and I got build-them-yourself Tomte Dolls which I will assemble before Christmas. *Note: I’m gradually accruing us small things that will someday make our Christmas tree an impressively multicultural experience, and this makes me incredibly happy. On our drive there we stopped to see a beautiful country church that was perched on a bit of hill and surrounded on three sides by fields of sheep. It was adorable, painted lots of pretty colors and with lots of tall pointy turret-y roof elements and I like to think that makes up for the lack of culture having discount shopping outing.

Last but not least…

Matt arrived from his conference on Friday evening, and we were scheduled to leave mid-day on Sunday, so Saturday was our one big tourist it up day. And, Karyn and David totally picked us a winner. Marstrand is a beautiful little island in southern Sweden, a short drive from Gothenburg and featuring ridiculous amounts of charm and scenery. We walked along the coast, including through the ‘eye of the needle’ (a very narrow walkway between very tall rocks) and through some little foresty paths… And, then COAST. Not like beach coast, instead like giant, prehistoric, fall off the edge of the world, rock coast. It was just gorgeous. And, it felt like the edge of the world, though this isolated, desolated look was totally interrupted by a huge sailing race going on just a short way from shore and so the view was peppered with lots of brightly colored sails. We continued our walk along the coast, seeing a deserted nudie beach (way too cold for that yet), and the fort on the hill, which dates back to the 1800s or something. We had some fish and chips and ice cream, we saw some really fantastic civic art (my favorite was Tony Craggs’ Point of view).

After Marstrand was an authentic taco dinner made by Karyn’s fantastic friend, Rachel (another LA escaper, though I think she didn’t hate it there, so we’ll have to try not to hold that against her) and there are not words for how fun it was to not only have dinner with friends, but also to have tacos. Seriously, who knew you could miss tacos so much?

 

Some food for thought:

  1. Licorice is a BIG thing in Sweden. They pair it with everything, berries, salt, chocolate, the list goes on. I am a fan of black licorice (much to Matt’s chagrin), but seriously, it’s not a versatile pairing flavour people. Stop trying.
  2. The long summer days in the UK, but even more so in Sweden (it was still light-ish at 11pm when we were there, in late May), are amazing (if not a little weird), but they do make me fear the VERY SHORT winter nights…
  3. The Swedes don’t lack in national self-esteem. And, for good reason, Sweden takes great care of itself, but there’s also only a few million people there, so that’s not exactly as difficult to do well as it would be for other places…

 

It still amazes me that we know live somewhere where international travel is so logistically feasible and (comparably) cheaper.

More to come.

– a